As we stepped off of the train into the heart of the picturesque village of Zermatt at the base of Switzerland's iconic, pyramid-shaped mountain, the saturated sunlight glistening the soft layers of December snow and illuminating the quaint shops instantly captured a classic Swiss setting.
Located in the southern canton of Valais and nestled amongst some of the highest peaks in the Alps, Zermatt attracts visitors from around the world for the various activities it offers throughout the seasons from climbing and paragliding adventures to biking, hiking and skiing. The main feature that has everyone peering up and over the slate rooftops is the magnificent triangular stone façade of the Matterhorn soaring 4478m above the wooden chalets, piercing wispy clouds in a deep blue sky and seemingly grazing hundreds of shimmering stars on a clear dark night.
Switzerland is divided into twenty-six cantons with three different speaking sections - French, German and Italian. In the Valais, French is spoken in the western region and German in the eastern region. Zermatt falls in the German speaking sector yet borders northern Italy allowing travelers the perfect opportunity to explore two beautiful countries along the vast network of trails and gondola systems.
Before tourism sparked with the arrival of British mountaineers in the early 1800s, Zermatt was considered a poor, rural agricultural community. To support the influx of explorers, the first hotel opened in 1838 and on July 14, 1865, a group of five climbers with the aid of two Swiss guides - Peter Taugwalder and his son Peter Taugwalder, Jr. - made the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn after several failed attempts from the Italian side. Unfortunately four of the original seven perished on the way back down the mountain leaving Edward Whymper and the Taugwalders as the only survivors.
The Mountaineer's Cemetery behind the Roman-Catholic Church of St. Mauritius contains the graves of fifty victims of avalanches, rockfalls and crevasses from mountains in the area and marks the location of the Tomb of the Unknown Climber dedicated to the more than 500 lives lost since that first ascent. The Taugwalders eventually chose to also be buried in the cemetery.
The church itself is thought to date back to 1285. Over the centuries, it has endured numerous reconstructions with more recent ones to include the installation of the clock in 1925, the inauguration of the organ in 1926 and bells in 1932 and a complete interior renovation in 1980 to commemorate the 700th anniversary of the parish.
As vehicles are not permitted in Zermatt - with the exception of mini electric taxi and hotel vans - visitors traveling by car can park in nearby Täsch and board the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn shuttle that runs every twenty minutes curving through the forest landscape and river valley to connect with the village center in twelve minutes. Hotels, apartments and chalets are all within a short walking distance of the station, although some of the alleyways are quite steep to navigate with lots of steps. Restaurants, cafés, bakeries and specialty shops line the main Bahnhofstrasse and neighborhood grocery stores are tucked away on side streets.
From the location of our chalet, the views of the Matterhorn would constantly change from sunrise to sunset and through different shifts in the weather. It felt impossible to hold back from glancing out of the windows or from popping out on the balcony to observe in wonderment. The village center and the gondola station were also easily reachable on foot for casual evening outings, a dash to the market and early access to the slopes.
Ski and snowboard equipment can be conveniently rented online and picked up in a variety of sports outlets scattered throughout Zermatt and while there are several establishments for fondue or raclette, making advanced reservations is highly recommended - the Whymper-Stube is one we loved for its cozy, quintessential Swiss hospitality. The Petit Royal or Fuchs Bäckerei quickly became our favorite daily stops for coffee, steaming cups of hot chocolate topped with fresh whipped cream and yummy flaky pastries. The handmade sweet or savory crêpes ordered straight from the window at Stefanie's Crêperie turned out to be a delicious late afternoon après-ski snack and on New Year's Eve, we joined hundreds of revelers on the village square in front of St. Mauritius for a colorful firework display at midnight.
Beyond the ski slopes and walking paths tailored for all types of skill levels, there is an assortment of things to do from weaving through the charming historic village with weathered wooden structures from the 16th and 18th centuries built on stone stilts to keep the mice out to spending an afternoon riding the Gornergrat cog railway up the winding mountainside or taking in the impressive unobstructed views from the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise station of the dazzling fourteen glaciers and thirty-eight snow-capped peaks - known as the four-thousanders - rising at more than 4000m.
Both the Gornergrat and Matterhorn Glacier Paradise excursions are experiences that should not be missed. As the first electric railway in Switzerland, Gornergrat opened in 1898 and smoothly transports passengers - skiers and tourists - year round. Over the course of a half hour with spectacular sightings of the Matterhorn throughout the trip, the train covers vertical terrain winding through forests, over bridges, through tunnels and past rocky ravines to arrive at the highest hotel in the Swiss Alps - the Kulmhotel Gornergrat - and the astronomical observatory that is open to the public. From the outdoor platform, there are sweeping views of a multitude of majestic mountains including Switzerland's tallest peak named the Dufourspitze standing at 4634m and the Gorner Glacier - the second largest glacier in the Alps.
To reach the stunning panorama of mountains at the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise - the highest station in Europe, the multiple cable car transfers are just a part of the highlights of the journey. Each phase floats over rough terrain, manicured pistes or the icy turquoise cracks of the Theodul Glacier. Once at the top, the observation deck unveils breathtaking, incomparable views of the surrounding "four-thousanders" spanning across Switzerland, Italy and France. On the day we visited, not even the cold sharp winds slicing through the crisp air could deter us from lingering to marvel at the fascinating, endless sparkling white peaks and sea of glaciers.
Zermatt is a destination worth adding to an itinerary in Switzerland in any season. The summer months present more hiking options with waterfalls and hidden lakes to discover and the delightful possibility of running into the famous fluffy Blacknose sheep. With the extreme altitude retaining winter snow, summer is also the time of year that Zermatt hosts international ski teams seeking to practice and refine techniques during the off season and where you may catch a glimpse - and autograph - of a favorite athlete.
Simply crossing the mountain ranges and zigzagging through valleys dotted with traditional wooden chalets on the way to Zermatt by car or rail is a special treat. For me, pausing in familiar cities, passing through alpine villages where annual school ski camps were held and revisiting this incredible country I lived in for ten years set the tone for an unforgettable winter holiday.
